Crossing the Tejo

Cadiz: one of Europe’s hidden gems. Amongst the oldest cities in Europe, it dates from 1100BC when it was founded by the Phoenicians, then flourished under Roman rule as “Gades”.

We always wanted to explore the city and decided to visit after our day-trip to Tangier (see my blog for more info).

The old city is a network of narrow pedestrian streets and alleys and largely car-free. So first on the agenda was to find long stay parking and drop off the car. A few hotels in Cadiz do offer parking but most do not so a short walk will often be necessary. Car park fees are around 15-20 Euros per day and the walk can be broken up by stopping for tapas and cerveza en route.

We stayed in the Soho Boutique Columela right in the heart of the old town. Keen to explore, we checken inc dumped our bags and headed out in search of a much needed Cerveza and a good spot for dinner.

Following the arterial Calle Ancha west, we were soon captivated by the vibrancy of Cadiz. We passed through a Roman procession with many local people dressed as Legionaries, peasants and citizens all heading to the main square (Plaza de San Antinio) as part of a month long celebration of the city’s Roman history. An Andalucian wedding was also taking place in the church and we stopped for a drink to admire the stylish attire of the guests (and criticise the less stylish!). This feeling of being in the midst of thriving community was a constant theme of our time in Cadiz.

We continued walking to La Caleta beach in time for a truly spectacular sunset and then headed to Calle Virgen de la Palma. This is one of the city’s dining hotspots (note: most restaurants close at 16:30 and open again between 7 and 8:00 PM), but we forced ourselves to keep walking as just around the corner was the delightful Taberna El tio de La Tiza. We sat at one of the many free tables but were swiftly informed that the restaurant was completely booked up! The Taberna area of the restaurant was unreserved and we were able to sit here and sample some of the restaurant’s incredible tapas. I won’t recommend particular dishes as everything that came out of the kitchen looked incredible. The wine and sangria were also excellent.

Soon a large crowd of people filled the square queuing for tables! Dining in Cadiz however is not something to be rushed: the city’s gastronomy and the culinary experience is an attraction in itself and must be truly savoured.

We walked back toward our hotel and passed the city’s main market, one end of which is packed with small stalls selling delicious tapas and great wine. We headed inside to find the area packed with locals, some of whom invited us to join them and try some of their food! We whiled away a convivial hour in their company before heading to bed.

On day 2, we grabbed breakfast in a nearby cafe and made our way to the Torre Tavira. This is one of the best viewpoints in Cadiz and gives and overview of its strategic location. If you are interested in the “camera obscura” housed in the tower, you must book in advance for a tour in Spanish / German / English.

The day was heating up so we decided head to the beach for a swim Before walking back to the cathedral. Rounding a corner to see this huge imposing structure framed by the high buildings is a truly breathtaking sight. the Cathedral square is also a lively building with many bars and restaurants of varying quality with street performers in the square later in the afternoon. Entering any cathedral is always an awe inspiring experience for me, although this is one of the more austere cathedrals I have visited, for example with no stained glass inside. tickets are purchased in a small office to the left of the main cathedral entrance.

As we left the cathedral square we passed another procession. An enormous effigy of a saint was being carried towards the cathedral by 30 men accompanied by drummers and a marching orchestra. Clearly a lot of rehearsal and community involvement had gone into this and it was so touching to see local people ranging from infants in cassocks to senior citizens in authentic Spanish dress participating and long may it continue.

We walked to Plaza de San Juan de Dios where we stopped at a great Cerveceria. The sun was going down and over a pint (or two) we enthused about our short time in this truly great city spent amongst its authentic people. We found ourselves somewhat envious of their way of life, the genuine spirit of community and family, the gastronomic culture and clear sense of identity.

Cadiz isn’t a city filled with star attractions: the attraction is the city itself and of course some excellent food and great people. Through more than 3000 years of history Cadiz has been on quite the ride, but the city it has become today should be on everyone’s must see list. We will definitely be back!